How
to Check Used Car Before Buying
Hi everyone ! …If you are thinking about purchasing a used car, you know how
confusing it can be. There are so many things to consider that it can be a
daunting experience. This is even more true if you are considering buying a car
for the first time. There are many things to look for when purchasing a used
car but one important factor is to give the car a physical check before making
your final decision. Here, then, are a few general pointers on how to
physically check out a used car before you buy it.
Follow this easy .... Steps
Make
sure that the car is on level ground before checking it out.
is to ensure that you
will be able to clearly check the tires and to see if there is anything sagging
on the car.
Carefully check the paint job of the car, taking note of any rust spots, dents or scratches.
Look at the sides of the car from end-on for
waviness; that indicates paint work. Run your finger along the edges of the
joints between panels; roughness indicates residue left from masking tape.
Check the trunk of the car to make sure it is still in good condition.
It should not show any
sign of rust, or water entry due to cracks or holes. Wear inside of the trunk
indicates usage of the car.
Check
under the hood of the car for any indication of dents, damage or rust.
These can all be signs
that the car was either poorly taken care of or damaged. Each fender, just
inside where the hood joins, should have a decal with the VIN (Vehicle
Identification Number) of the car; if it is missing, that fender was replaced.
The
hoses and belts should not have cracks, but if not, the radiator hoses should
not be soft.
Go
inside the car and check the seats and upholstery of the car for any tears,
rips, stains, or other type of damage.
Check
to make sure the air-conditioning of the car is working well by turning it on
to see that it works.
If air conditioning is
a must buy a car with R134 coolant. Most cars fitted with R134 are 1993 or
newer and have a sticker on the AC Condenser.
Check
the odometer of the car for the mileage.
This is important
because the mileage indicates the car’s age. On the average, a normal driver will
drive between 10,000 to 15,000 miles a year; however, this depends on many
factors. Remember, cars age by time and mileage. Buying a 10 year old car with
very low miles is not necessarily a good thing.
Test
drive the car before making any final decisions.
This is perhaps one of
the best ways to know the condition of the car. Hence, a buyer should make all
effort to do a test drive first before coming to any decisions.
Best Seller Auto parts available..here
Check
out the car's service history which should give you some information regarding
the performances, repairs, and problems of the car.
Ideally, the current
owner would have kept a record of the times when the car needed servicing and
should be willing to show you this information. Some cars do not have
maintenance records because they maintained them at home. This should be fine
as long as they can prove they maintained the car properly. There are instances
where used cars are sold because of past accidents or negative experiences.
Be
sure to check the brakes of the car by pressing down hard enough on the brakes
to decelerate rapidly, but not enough to slide.
Try this going around
30 mph in an area without traffic. You should not feel any vibration from the
brake pedal, or hear any squealing or strange noises. Brakes that pulsate
indicate the need for having the rotors resurfaced or replaced and new pads
installed. It should not swerve; this can be caused by a bad brake caliper or
worn steering components.
Inspect
the engine for any sort of leaks, or corrosion.
On the engine block,
look for any dark brown oil stains, this will indicate that there is a leak in
a gasket, and could possibly lead to an expensive repair in the future. Check
the brake fluid, and reservoir to make sure its is not leaking. The belts
should look new (i.e. not have cracks or signs of drying). Old belts can snap,
and if you do not know how to replace them, it will cost between $100-500
depending on which belt goes bad.
Remove
the oil filler cap.
A foam residue on the
inside indicates a leaking head gasket. Forget that car. Look at the condition
of the coolant in the overflow jar; filthy brown coolant means it's never been
flushed and often means a leaky head gasket.
Pull
the transmission dipstick; the fluid should be pink or red.
An old car may be dark
but it should not look or smell burnt. It should also be full (check with the
engine running).
The
timing belt is the most important belt in the engine, and is also the most
costly to replace.
If the car is equipped
with a steel timing chain, you don't have to worry about this. Normal lifespan
of a timing belt is from 60-100+ thousand miles; this depends on the
manufacturer.
The
tires should be worn evenly and they should match.
Look at the surface of
the tire for feathering (bad alignment). Bad alignment can be caused by worn
steering/suspension components, the pothole down the street or frame damage.
Also check the spare tire and compare the tread to the other tires if it is a
full spare.
Never
buy a frame damaged car.
Check the saddle
(connects the front fenders and holds the top of the radiator). It should not
be welded on either side, it should be bolted in. Inspect the bolt heads at the
top of the fenders inside the hood; scratch marks indicates that the fenders
have been replaced or realigned (after a crash). Look for welds inside the door
jambs.
Check
for small trepidation at 45 / 55 / 65 / 75 mph. Slight trepidation during a small speed
interval may mean wear at the direction mechanical parts which may cost between
400 to 1500 to repair. These may include joints / arms etc. This may go
together with uneven wear at the front tire(s).
Check
for sounds, trepidation or clunking noise when making a 90 degrees turn. Do this at low speed. This means again, wear
at the front direction level: joints need to be changed.
For
a car that has an on board computer, pay attention to the warnings right when
you start the car or when you turn the key or the start button.
Verify
the lights and all the regular functions of the car when not moving.
This include: any sensors for parking, back
parking camera, radio, CD, music installation, etc...
If
you are able, try to get under the car when it is safely raised and inspect the
exhaust system or any under-body rust.
Look for any black
spots on the exhaust system because this can indicate leaking. This is also a
good time to inspect for frame or unibody damage.
It
is a good idea to bring along a trusted friend with a good background of automotive
know-how to check things that you are not sure of.
If you do not have a
trusted friend in the auto industry you can pay a mechanic to complete an
inspection on it for around 75-100 bucks. Make sure this mechanic has good
reviews so you will not get scammed into thinking the car is a lemon.
Do
not pay sticker price.
A used car is a negotiable item. Do not feel the need to pay the price they are asking. The dealer bought this car at a low price, and is turning around and selling it for much more than they purchased it with the notion that they might have to lower that sticker price. Depending on the quality of the vehicle, feel free to offer a price. Be sure that it is a reasonable offer. If the dealer is asking $15,000, do not offer $10,000. It is merely an insult by doing this. If the car is over $10,000, try to negotiate at least $1500 off of the car. You can pre-qualify yourself at your bank or at a Credit Union. That will determine what you can spend for a car. Try to buy a car that is less than they tell you. Most people try to buy more car than they can really afford. Remember, no matter how good that car is today, it is going to require maintenance in the future. Use parts of the car that are unflattering to your advantage. If a car is not the color you are looking for, tell the dealer "I really like the car, but I don't like that it is green, that is the only thing holding me back from buying it" The dealer will see that you want it, and find some way to get you into that car.
A used car is a negotiable item. Do not feel the need to pay the price they are asking. The dealer bought this car at a low price, and is turning around and selling it for much more than they purchased it with the notion that they might have to lower that sticker price. Depending on the quality of the vehicle, feel free to offer a price. Be sure that it is a reasonable offer. If the dealer is asking $15,000, do not offer $10,000. It is merely an insult by doing this. If the car is over $10,000, try to negotiate at least $1500 off of the car. You can pre-qualify yourself at your bank or at a Credit Union. That will determine what you can spend for a car. Try to buy a car that is less than they tell you. Most people try to buy more car than they can really afford. Remember, no matter how good that car is today, it is going to require maintenance in the future. Use parts of the car that are unflattering to your advantage. If a car is not the color you are looking for, tell the dealer "I really like the car, but I don't like that it is green, that is the only thing holding me back from buying it" The dealer will see that you want it, and find some way to get you into that car.
If
purchasing from a private sale it can be beneficial to the price negotiation to
bring a pen, paper and cell phone with you.
As you make your inspection of the car be sure to record all items which are damaged or will require replacement. If needed also remind the buyer that you will be taking the vehicle to your own personal mechanic so they do not think the list is for theirs. After you have collected a list of what you believe the car will require you can telephone auto parts stores to check the price and availability of replacement parts. Once you know how much the car will cost to repair if you buy it you can make an informed decision on what you would like to pay as well as increase the likelihood that the seller may reduce their asking price. Be careful while doing this because some sellers may think its rude by doing this and thus could end into a no sale
As you make your inspection of the car be sure to record all items which are damaged or will require replacement. If needed also remind the buyer that you will be taking the vehicle to your own personal mechanic so they do not think the list is for theirs. After you have collected a list of what you believe the car will require you can telephone auto parts stores to check the price and availability of replacement parts. Once you know how much the car will cost to repair if you buy it you can make an informed decision on what you would like to pay as well as increase the likelihood that the seller may reduce their asking price. Be careful while doing this because some sellers may think its rude by doing this and thus could end into a no sale
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Extra Tips ...
- Vehicle History Reports are inexpensive and can contain very valuable information. Don't read too deep! The important things are: Accidents and Odometer Discrepancies. If you are looking at a car from a dealer have them provide you with a vehicle history report (Carfax). Make sure they give you the last page off the printer.
- Use Consumer Reports Buying Guide to check out the general reputation
of the car. Don't pay thousands more for a great reputation. Car condition
is much more important than the nameplate.
- Beware of UFOs...Unidentified
Funky Odors. It can be very difficult and expensive to get
a strange smell out of a used car.
- Use an independent source to determine the wholesale and retail values
of your target vehicle. Is the sellers' price very similar, or is there an
unexplained difference in price?
- Buying a car from your choice service center is the best way to ensure
long term satisfaction. If buying from a dealer with no service center
have the car checked out by your mechanic!
- Certified Cars cost a little more but have some assurances and usually
a warranty.
- Compare the condition of the car's interior to the readout on the
odometer. A car that ostensibly has 15,000 miles on it will probably not
have a driver's seat that looks like it's been savagely beaten -
repeatedly - with a meat tenderizer. An overly worn passenger compartment
coupled with low mileage can be an indication of odometer fraud.
- Bring a magnet to detect any body work that might be repaired with bond.
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